Colorado/Utah/Arizona: 9 - 21 June 2019

Dead Horse State Park

 We decided after last month's trip that we would need to return out west to do the things that we did not get a chance to do due last months bad weather and pulling the travel trailer.  Driving the car gave us a better opportunity to be more mobile and make more stops.  We made all of our reservations prior to traveling via Expedia.

9 June we drove to Hays, KS its about a 10 hour drive. Monday we drove to Colorado Springs, CO about 6 hours.  Stayed at Garden of the Gods Days Inn.  Booked online for $72.00 a night.  No frills but good location about 10 minutes from Garden of the Gods and 25 min from Pikes Peak.  Visited Garden of the Gods late afternoon.  This time of year, there is a lot of visitors so we had to drive around a couple times to get good parking at the center of the park.  There is no entry fee.  Once parked you can walk throughout the rock formations.  There is a visitor center across the street at the entrance.  Typically, you will see climbers on some of the formations but permits are required.  Expect to spend a couple hours at least walking the gravel trails.

Tuesday we drove west on Hwy 24 about 10 miles out of Colorado Springs to Pikes Peak.  Elevation at the top is 14,111 feet.  There is an entry fee of 15.00 a person.  It is NOT a national park so don’t expect discounts.  The drive itself is an adrenaline rush and is not for the faint hearted.  There are almost no guard rails and the pavement edge just several feet at times from the drop off.  Definitely do not want to let your eyes wonder if you are the driver.  It’s a windy but very scenic 18-mile drive to the top.  There was construction going at the top so we had to stop at mile 16 and board a shuttle for the last 2 miles.  The temperature at the bottom was in the mid-70s, at the top it was a crisp 38.  At the top there is a gift shop and snack shop.  From the top the view is breathtaking. Expect to spend about 3 hours roundtrip.

here is what 14,000 feet does to chip bag

Drove west on route 24 to a historic western town called Cripple Creek about 30 miles away.  The drive was amazing.  From a distance the town looked very authentic but once you got there most of the old western store fronts hid casinos within them.  There were a few old-time general stores and restaurants.  There was a museum and visitor center that had the best historic information.  

Cripple Creek from a distance

That evening we visited the Seven Falls.  This is a privately-owned park.  Entry fee is 15.00 per person but 12.50 for military/retirees.  Parking is several miles away but shuttle takes you to park entrance.  It runs about every 10 minutes from opening until the last visitor leaves at night.  Our driver said they usually are finished at 2200.  The park is located inside a gorge just a few minutes out of town.  Once you are dropped off you pay and there is a scenic 0.8-mile paved walk along the flowing creek to the main section.  A tram is there for those that choose not to walk for a cost $2 per person.  A restaurant is also located on the premises.  The best view is from the observation nest with an apposing view of the entire falls sequence.  An elevator is available.  For a closer view of each section of the falls there is a stair case with 244 stairs that ascends the entire falls.  At the top there are additional trails for hiking.  At dusk the falls is lit for a unique view.  We spent about 4 hours and left just after dusk

View from the elevator

Jen wasn't too sure about all of those steps before we started

Traveled to Moab, UT on Wednesday.  Should have been about 6 hr. drive but I-70 was closed west of Denver up in the Rockies.  The last 4 miles prior to the detour on Rt. 6 took 1 ½ hours.  Once off the highway it was 18 miles through the ski country to get back on I-70.  Hated the traffic jam but the detour was amazing driving a windy road at over 10000 feet elevation.  Moab is a nice size town with plenty of stores, lodging, and eateries.  We stayed in a camping cabin at Moab Valley RV Resort.  Booked online for $89.00 a night.  The location next to Hwy 181 was unfortunate as you hear quite a bit of road noise.   At Colorado Springs it was mid 70’s during the day.  Here its upper 80’s, but low humidity

Spent all day Thursday seeing the sights.  Drove one of the scenic byways (Kane Creek).  It was an 18-mile road partially paved and gravel.  It started right out of downtown Moab and ran along the Colorado river descending down into a winding canyon.  Quite a few primitive campgrounds and many trails for mountain bike/ATV riding.  

 

Drove another scenic byway northwest to Dead Horse State Park on Hwy 313.  It started about 10 miles north of Moab on Hwy 89.  Beautiful drive up to a mesa that bisected the Colorado river basin.  Entry into the state park was 20.00 per car.  It’s a small park but had one of the best views of the Colorado river I have ever saw.

Visited Canyonlands National Park a few miles west of the state park.  Entry fee was 30.00 per car.  We still had our annual pass from Grand Canyon last month.  Talked with a ranger at the visitor center and confirmed that if you have a documented VA disability you can get a lifetime free pass to all national parks.  Visit any national park visitor center for details.  This park was amazing in the views of the canyons on both sides of the mesa.  At the end there is a Grandview overlook that cannot be described in words.  Pictures do not do it justice, you just have to see it to appreciate it.  

Sitting on the edge..6000 ft down. Those squiggly lines are trails below

 Returned back to Moab in the late afternoon and entered Arches National Park.  This park is just a couple miles north of the Moab and almost directly across from our campground.  This was on a Thursday and there were not many visitors so we got to easily enter and see all the popular sites.  This park is so big with so many arches that can be accessed by minimal walking.  The longest hike is 6 miles roundtrip and most are less than a mile on hard packed dirt trails that are well marked. The sites were beyond words and pictures can only do so much.  This park is open 24 hours a day which allows for visitors to see the arches under a night sky.  The best day times are dawn and dusk as the low sun turns the rocks a crimson red and the crowds are minimal.  I would imagine a visit under a full moon night would be amazing as well.

 

 

Ate at a local joint called the Moab diner.  Our server was am interesting guy.  He moved from Maryland to Moab 6 years ago because of the skiing and rock climbing.  Lives outdoors during the spring/summer/fall months.  Reminded me of Spicole off of Fast Times at Ridgemont High.  He seemed very content. If you are out there check this joint out as the food is delicious and the prices are decent.

From Moab you can visit all three parks in a day but I recommend spending at least 2-3 days in this area to fully explore all the sites.  The weather this time of year is in the upper 80s but low humidity and constant breeze makes it feel more like the upper 70s.  When talking about National Parks, Smokey mountains and/or Mammoth cave comes to mind with the crowds and tourist traps.  The parks out in this area are very different.  Low crowds with almost no commercial aspects.  Its all about the outdoor experience.  Just bring water, snacks, camera, and your desire to explore and you will have a great time.

Friday returned to Bryce Canyon KOA in Cannonville, UT.  It’s a 3 ½ drive west on 70 and 1 hour south on Hwy 89.  The temperature is always cooler around Bryce because of the 8000 elevation.  And it seems to rain more.  Last month it rained off and on about every day and the forecast called for possible showers each day this week.  Stayed at a camping cabin at the Cannonville KOA for $85.00 a night.  A very nice campground with a heated pool and small general store.  They have tent/RV/Cabin sites with free WiFi and the restrooms and showers are really clean.

 

Saturday we went Escalante to catch a shuttle out Hole in the Rock Road to the Peek-a-Boo and Spooky slot canyons.  Last month we drove our truck down this wash boarded road and it cracked the exhaust.  Not about to try it in the Camry.  High Adventures shuttle provided a driver and jeep for $70.00 per person roundtrip.  The 26 mile ride out was a blast…so much better in a vehicle that was made for off roading.  Speed limit was 30 but I am guessing we were rarely under 50 most of the way but I could not tell as none of the gauges worked.  They have other services to other locations to include rentals and tours.  The slot canyons were awesome.  At times I was not sure that we were going to fit in a few of the places in Spooky.  Had to crawl through a hole at one point to get around a few boulders.  It takes about 2 ½ hours to go up Peek-a-Boo and back down Spooky.  The pictures tell a better tale.  There are two more slot canyons (Dry Fork and Brimstone) in that area but would need a full day to do the full look. Our trip lasted from 1200 to 1630.  

  Took a scenic drive Sunday on Hells Backbone road. It is a well-maintained gravel road that cuts across Dixie Forest to Boulder, UT.  The 44-mile drive was very scenic up into the mountains and across a road created back in the 30’s during the depression.  Be careful as there are a few places that both sides of the road are sheer drop offs down to the canyon floor.  A bridge on the Boulder side of the mountain highlights the drive and is worth stopping and taking a walk out onto for a look over.

Monday went to Bryce Canyon National Park again to see it without the snow that we had when we were here last month. Bryce is a quiet a bit different than other parks we have visited.  It is mostly wooded with tall evergreens and with the high altitude it’s all about the views of the canyons below.  There are some hiking trails but they are just below the rim.  Pulling off in a vehicle gives you about the same view.   Had a horseback ride through …. but rescheduled it for tomorrow morning due to the rain and cool weather.  The temperature dropped 14 degrees from our campsite to the Bryce entrance

Tuesday the weather was much better.  We finally got in that 2-hour horseback ride through Redcanyon.  It was very scenic and the trail wound up to the top of a canyon and back down.  The guides provided information about the history of the canyon and even stopped by a famous stop to take pictures of the riders and provided them by email.  Red Canyon is famous for being the home of Butch Cassidy.  The horses were easy going enough for all ages.  The cost was 70.00 per person.  My horse was "Bean" and Jennifer's was "Pepper".  Ironically enough they were a "couple"

  Wednesday headed south on 89 to Page, AZ.  A very scenic 3-hour drive across south eastern Utah into north eastern corner of AZ near Lake Powell.  Page is a very small town famous for Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon.  Tourism seems to be the major business.  Visited a very scenic overlook at Horseshoe Bend just a couple miles south of Page, AZ.  The view of the winding Colorado River was amazing.  There was a $10.00 charge per car and it required about 1.5-mile roundtrip walk.  Well worth it.  '

 Stayed at the Lake Powell Canyon Inn cost was 120.00 a night.  That seems to be on the low end of the room rate for Page, AZ.  Lake Powell is a couple miles north of Page.  It is a managed by the National Park System so there is an entry fee of $30.00.  Another good use of the annual pass.  The lake is massive, reminds me of Cumberland lake as both are created by dams of their respective rivers.  

Thursday was a slot canyon day.  We thought about doing the guided Antelope Canyon tour but chose against it due to the high cost and large crowds.  Drove 30 miles north on Hwy 89 to School house rock road.  8.5 miles on well maintained dirt road to Wire Pass slot canyon trailhead.  Park at the designated parking lot and pay the 6.00 per person  by filling out envelope and leaving ticket on dash of car.  A mile walk down a river wash to a nice set of slot canyons.  The .5 mile walk through Wire Pass canyon leads you to intersection with Buckskin Gulch slot canyon.  This is the longest/deepest slot canyons in the Southwest.  We walked down the canyon for a couple hours.  No crowds and beautiful formations.  So glad we chose this over the commercialized trip.

 

Pitch a rock and you get mud flowers

This little guy was not going to be denied

 

Friday hit the road coming home.  From Page we took some back roads to Albuquerque, NM to get on I-40.  One of the most desolate drives I have ever taken.  It was scenic in a strange way. It goes through the Navajo Indian Reservation.  Make sure you have a full tank of gas.

Once Jennifer took over at  Albuquerque she got a case of insomnia and drove for almost 12 hours through the night.  I don't know how she does it. I took over in Little Rock, AR to give her a much needed break.  Back home after 27 hours on the road and just over 3000 miles round trip.  This trip offered us such amazing experiences and breathtaking views.  Each time we saw something we would say "It cant get better than that" but we were wrong!  Pictures does not do this trip justice.  All we can say to you is "JUST GO!".

Insomnia is a bitch

Next stop...Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands